Taquile Island On a recent visit to the expansive and picturesque Lake Titicaca, James and I were rewarded with a visit to a community unlike any other that we had experienced before. Although much of the area is associated with inauthentic gimmicks aimed at attracting tourists, as Marisol described in her post, “Trip Report: Lake Titicaca,” we were afforded the opportunity to spend some time learning about the intriguing island community known as Taquile. Departing from the pier in Puno, James and I traveled on a boat bound for Suasi Island Eco Lodge. The warm rays of the sun, the cool breeze of the lake, and the gently rocking of the boat were mesmerizing and complemented the tranquil views of the shoreline, the Andean ducks, and the passing boats. Following a two-hour boat ride, we arrived to the pier, where members of the community welcomed us with a handshake and a smile. During our visit, our guide Maria, with the help of one of the community members, explained the various aspects of the Quechua-speaking people living here - people who are able to successfully fuse their ancient Inca traditions with modern technology. We listened intently as they described the Inca communal laws which they live by as well as the rudimentary process of farming potatoes, quinoa, barley, and other agricultural products, yet we were shocked when Maria explained that the islanders opted to use solar energy as their power source. There were also various demonstrations during our visit. One volunteer showed us how they use the natural flora to create a very important household item: laundry detergent. They produced this powerful and natural cleaning agent by grinding a particular cactus in between two stones, yielding a frothy and green mixture that is then strained and diluted with fresh water from
Taquile Island On a recent visit to the expansive and picturesque Lake Titicaca, James and I were rewarded with a visit to a community unlike any other that we had experienced before. Although much of the area is associated with inauthentic gimmicks aimed at attracting tourists, as Marisol described in…
By Marisol Mosquera Lake Titicaca experience I have visited Lake Titicaca a number of times, mostly on the Peruvian side but also on the Bolivian one. There are many ways to visit the lake on the way from Bolivia to Peru, from Peru to Bolivia as well as while visiting either of the two countries separately. If I had to choose one side of Lake Titicaca to visit, I would prefer the Bolivian side, especially if you spend the night at Isla del Sol. The ever present backdrop of the snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Real make for stunning views of the lake the whole time. The Bolivian side is also smaller, so its easier to visit. On a stand alone Bolivia visit of the lake, you should include Tiwanaku and the little islands of Pariti and Kalahuta, both which Vicky and Nora of Aracari visited on this same trip. Nico, Simon from Aracari's Lima office, Darius of Crillon Tours, our guide Gustavo and I, drove from La Paz to Huatajata (one of the handful of ports on the Bolivian side of the lake). From there we went on the fast Hydrofoil service across Winaymarka (or small lake) to the Isla del Sol, the largest island on the lake and one of great historical significance, as it is the mythical setting of the birthplace of the Inca Empire. There are two sets of ruins on the island and they can easily be visited if you have the energy to hike a bit, which is what we did. From Huatajata to Isla del Sol took a little over 2 hours. We disembarked, visited the inca ruins of Pillkokaina and the Inca steps, and then we hiked up to our home for the night, Posada del Inca Ecolodge. The hike up was
By Marisol Mosquera Lake Titicaca experience I have visited Lake Titicaca a number of times, mostly on the Peruvian side but also on the Bolivian one. There are many ways to visit the lake on the way from Bolivia to Peru, from Peru to Bolivia as well as while visiting…
Aracari's Founder and CEO, Marisol Mosquera, shares her thoughts on her recent visit to Suasi Island Lodge, an eco-island getaway and one of the best places to stay on Lake Titicaca. Suasi Island: A retreat in Lake Titicaca During my recent visit to Suasi Island (February 2008), I experienced what had captivated me about this place ever since my first visit in 1997, when it was still under construction. Of course my personal and Aracari's close connection to Martha Giraldo the island owner has a lot to do with it. I still remember when it was all a dream and Martha came to my apartment in Lima to show me the blueprints of the lodge in late 1996. It was a daunting task, and I am impressed she single handedly managed to pull it off! Fast forward 11 years and the place is a dream come true. It is now operated by Casa Andina, and it is the jewel of their private collection. I have to admit they are doing a fabulous job. It isn't easy to operate a lodge at nearly 4000 metres, and on an island, 4 hours away from the nearest city! Casa Andina's efficient management coupled with Martha's constant and ongoing presence and input make the place work extremely well. She ensures that the gardens are how they should be; they are now mature and populated by endemic and exotic species. And she has removed 70% of the damaging eucalyptus from the island and planted native species such as Quenuas, Mashwa, K'antu trees... there are vicuñas, vischachas, and loads of hummingbirds. A stay in Suasi is truly rewarding and allows the visitor to assimilate what they have learned during a Peru visit. It is a haven of peace, where kayaking, hiking, photographing, and reading are the activities.
Aracari’s Founder and CEO, Marisol Mosquera, shares her thoughts on her recent visit to Suasi Island Lodge, an eco-island getaway and one of the best places to stay on Lake Titicaca. Suasi Island: A retreat in Lake Titicaca During my recent visit to Suasi Island (February 2008), I experienced what had…
The Ship, The Lady, and the Lake follows the extraordinary account of Meriel Larken’s quest to restore the “Yavari” steamship in Peru’s Lake Titicaca. The story vividly describes her account of finding the decrepit ship rotting away in the Lake, how she discovered the ship’s incredible history, and her project to restore and preserve this piece of history. In 1861, the Peruvian government ordered the construction of the steamships for Lake Titicaca to transport cargo and passengers between lake ports in Peru and Bolivia. One year later, the British-built ship arrived at the southern coast of Peru, and the government faced the daunting task of transporting the ship through the Andes to Lake Titicaca, which arrived in thousands of separate pieces. Piece by piece and with the help of mules, the ship was carried over 12,500 feet to the world’s highest navigable lake where it was reconstructed for use. Larken’s book recalls this epic journey and puts the remarkable feat into perspective. Following its reconstruction, the steamship was operated by a British company and provided transport for the region’s exports and moved passengers between lakeside communities for more than a century. Around 1975, the ship became the property of the Peruvian Navy, and unfortunately, due to a lack of resources, was allowed to fall into disrepair. By the time Meriel Larken discovered the Yavari in 1985, it had been rotting away for years in a Puno port. Fortunately for Larken, having been in fresh water and a high altitude, the ship’s iron hull was preserved and deemed worthy of a restoration. This is where her quest began to restore the ship to its former glory and turn it into a major tourist attraction. As she describes in her book, years of dedication and hard work paid off, and in 1998
The Ship, The Lady, and the Lake follows the extraordinary account of Meriel Larken’s quest to restore the “Yavari” steamship in Peru’s Lake Titicaca. The story vividly describes her account of finding the decrepit ship rotting away in the Lake, how she discovered the ship’s incredible history, and her project…