By Marisol Mosquera Lake Titicaca experience I have visited Lake Titicaca a number of times, mostly on the Peruvian side but also on the Bolivian one. There are many ways to visit the lake on the way from Bolivia to Peru, from Peru to Bolivia as well as while visiting either of the two countries separately. If I had to choose one side of Lake Titicaca to visit, I would prefer the Bolivian side, especially if you spend the night at Isla del Sol. The ever present backdrop of the snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Real make for stunning views of the lake the whole time. The Bolivian side is also smaller, so its easier to visit. On a stand alone Bolivia visit of the lake, you should include Tiwanaku and the little islands of Pariti and Kalahuta, both which Vicky and Nora of Aracari visited on this same trip. Nico, Simon from Aracari's Lima office, Darius of Crillon Tours, our guide Gustavo and I, drove from La Paz to Huatajata (one of the handful of ports on the Bolivian side of the lake). From there we went on the fast Hydrofoil service across Winaymarka (or small lake) to the Isla del Sol, the largest island on the lake and one of great historical significance, as it is the mythical setting of the birthplace of the Inca Empire. There are two sets of ruins on the island and they can easily be visited if you have the energy to hike a bit, which is what we did. From Huatajata to Isla del Sol took a little over 2 hours. We disembarked, visited the inca ruins of Pillkokaina and the Inca steps, and then we hiked up to our home for the night, Posada del Inca Ecolodge. The hike up was
By Marisol Mosquera Lake Titicaca experience I have visited Lake Titicaca a number of times, mostly on the Peruvian side but also on the Bolivian one. There are many ways to visit the lake on the way from Bolivia to Peru, from Peru to Bolivia as well as while visiting…
by Marisol Mosquera Madidi National Park I last travelled to Chalalan Lodge about 12 years ago when it had just opened as an initiative of the US-based NGO Conservation International along with the community of San Jose de Uchupiamonas, located within Madidi National Park. I went by bus that time, 12 gruelling hours I would never repeat!! Chalalan Lodge is one of the handful of community run lodges in Madidi National Park to the north of La Paz, bordering the Tambopata National Reserve and Bahuaja Sonene in Peru . Since 2001, Chalalan has been self managed by the Community, Conservation International is no longer involved. There are several lodges in Madidi National Park, the 2m. hectare park on the watershed of the Madidi River, one of South America's most intact ecosystems. The park hosts 44% of all New World Mammal Species, and as many as 1000 bird species. This time, Simon, Nico and I took the 45 minute flight from La Paz on Amaszonas Airlines, on their 18-seater twin-engine propeller plane operating the route between La Paz and Rurrenabaque (the town in the Beni region where the vast majority of trips to Madidi begin, and from where you can also travel to the Pampas del Heath in Peru). This was the beginning of our 4 day, 3 night adventure in the rainforest. The first night was to be spent in Rurrenabaque (Rurre) and the following two nights at Chalalan lodge, the package that had been prepared for us. There are 3 daily flights from La Paz (morning, noon and evening), and the flight is pretty scary if you ask me; going from 4000m to 250m above sea level, crossing the majestic Andean snow capped peaks in a little plane is absolutely awe inspiring and terrifying at the same time. Needless to say
by Marisol Mosquera Madidi National Park I last travelled to Chalalan Lodge about 12 years ago when it had just opened as an initiative of the US-based NGO Conservation International along with the community of San Jose de Uchupiamonas, located within Madidi National Park. I went by bus that time, 12…
by Marisol Mosquera After our long journey across deserts, lagoons and the Salar de Uyuni and endless drives through Potosi and Sucre, arriving in La Paz by plane - and into our 5 star hotel Casa Grande - was the most unbelievable indulgence. La Paz and Surroundings The condition of Bolivia's roads is better than 10 years ago, but not much better. A lot of the roads are unpaved or poorly paved, even around La Paz. Very bumpy and dusty experiences, so a well-appointed modern room was just what we needed. We flew Aero Bolivia from Sucre. This is a state-owned airline, which together with a small but growing private airline called Amaszonas cover all domestic routes. It was a good flight but we had a bizarre stopover in Cochabamba, where they asked us to disembark, to then walk through the airport and through security only to board the plane again. At least we were amused at our random encounter with the plane of Cristina Kirchner, who was on a State visit, (she visits Bolivia frequently these days), including red carpet along the runway, flower arcade and military band. Domestic flights in Bolivia are seldom direct. One is rather short of breath on arrival at El Alto - one of the highest airports in the world at over 4,000 metres, a tiny airport with only one baggage claim belt. Walk outside on a typical clear winter day, without a single cloud in the sky, and the first thing you see are the wonderful views of the imposing peaks of the Cordillera Real: Huayna Potosi and Illimani among many other smaller snowcapped peaks. As we drive down to La Paz, the three most remarkable characteristics of this city are immediately evident and never leave you: the astounding mountain views, the dramatic
by Marisol Mosquera After our long journey across deserts, lagoons and the Salar de Uyuni and endless drives through Potosi and Sucre, arriving in La Paz by plane – and into our 5 star hotel Casa Grande – was the most unbelievable indulgence. La Paz and Surroundings The condition of…
Potosi and Sucre by Marisol Mosquera The drive between Uyuni and Potosi used to take all day, but with paved road all the way, it is now a swift 3 and a half hour drive. Nico and I, together with Vicky and Nora who joined us from Aracari's Lima office, left early on what was set to be a packed day - we needed to have a full day of sightseeing in Potosi before reaching our home for the night (which would turn out to be the highlight), the Hotel Museo - Hacienda Cayara. Potosi But first, the sights! Potosi is a strange city, a chaotic and unattractive town, yet it still displays the grandeur and significance of its past. A UNESCO heritage site since 1987, standing at 4000m above sea level, Potosi was an important metropolis in the 16th century with a population larger than that of Paris or London. This was all thanks to "Cerro Rico" or Rich Mountain which stands next to the city, and which fed the world with what it seemed to be an endless supply of silver during the times of the Spanish Empire. The silver that came out - which legend says was enough to build a bridge from Potosi to Madrid - financed the highly indebted Spanish empire at the time and made many people millionaires!! The fascinating and tragic history of this city (many tens of thousands died extracting the mineral) can be witnessed through visits to the major monuments: The "Casa de la Moneda" or Royal Mint, one of the most important secular colonial monuments in South America; and the Convent of Santa Teresa, the most interesting of many convents and churches. These two landmarks take up the best part of the afternoon. But the most bizarre and compelling visit was
Potosi and Sucre by Marisol Mosquera The drive between Uyuni and Potosi used to take all day, but with paved road all the way, it is now a swift 3 and a half hour drive. Nico and I, together with Vicky and Nora who joined us from Aracari’s Lima office,…
Peru trip report by Marisol Mosquera I have been to the Salar de Uyuni and Desert + Lagoons area twice before, but it had been a while since I last visited. Since then there have been some improvements to the infrastructure, which makes the visit easier and expands the itinerary options, all of which is great news! Visiting the entire area requires 3 or 4 days. We have spent 4 wonderful if tough and cold days here, but again I have confirmed that this is one of the most fascinating spots on earth, at least in my experience. The photos we have taken can give you a small glimpse of the beauty and uniqueness of the landscape and the experience. I highly recommend a visit to this area. I would divide the area in two sections: One is the Desert and Lagoons area and the other is the Salar. They are both wonderful. We have done both, but travellers can decide to do one or the other. I would recommend doing both if you come all the way to Bolivia. But there are people who are briefly visiting La Paz and are short of time, and would like to come to the Salar only, and that is possible in as short a time as 1 day 1 night, because now there are two daily flights into Uyuni from La Paz. Desert + Lagoons The Desert + Lagoons area is the area the between the Chilean border and the southern border of the Salar. This is a very large area and much road travel is required, approx 550kms driving in two days. Roads are unpaved and unmarked, and some sections are rocky paths and can't be called roads. There is no cellular coverage in this area and accommodation is basic and
Peru trip report by Marisol Mosquera I have been to the Salar de Uyuni and Desert + Lagoons area twice before, but it had been a while since I last visited. Since then there have been some improvements to the infrastructure, which makes the visit easier and expands the itinerary…
Visiting the Atacama Desert Aracari's Founder Marisol Mosquera shares a series of reports from her trip across Chile, Bolivia and Peru in July 2012 I love San Pedro de Atacama in Northern Chile as a destination for outdoor activities and relaxation. The hotels are excellent and varied, and the geography so diverse, you can stay here for 3 , 4 days or more and have a great time. Its geographic location, bordering Bolivia and Argentina, means the Atacama Desert combines well with an overland trip through the Eduardo Avaroa Reserve to the impressive salt flats of Uyuni in Bolivia, or to Salta in Argentina. The town of Atacama The last time I came to San Pedro was 10 years ago. The town hasn't changed much, it is practically the same thing. It has a feeling of a town in the wild west: very quiet, roads are unpaved and there is little to see and do. We went into the Museum and it looks exactly the same as it did 10 years ago. The humble church is the same on the outside but the interior has been restored, it is a very simple village church. I hear the municipality has strict regulations on the appearance of the town: they want it to look as authentic as possible, this is why the roads are unpaved and they regulate the construction. I particularly liked the pharmacy which has opened just recently keeping the old style. Where to stay in the Atacama Desert What has really changed is that there are so many new hotels now. When I came, there was Explora at the high end and Hosteria San Pedro at the budget level. Now there are countless hotels, and it is this is what I really wanted to experience on this trip. But is not cheap
Visiting the Atacama Desert Aracari’s Founder Marisol Mosquera shares a series of reports from her trip across Chile, Bolivia and Peru in July 2012 I love San Pedro de Atacama in Northern Chile as a destination for outdoor activities and relaxation. The hotels are excellent and varied, and the geography so…
